How to Inspect a Used Car: What to Look For Before You Hand Over Any Money
When inspecting a used car, check the exterior for panel gaps and paint variations, the interior for warning lights and seat wear, under the bonnet for oil colour and leaks, and the steering, brakes and noises on a test drive. A PPSR check and a service logbook review should happen before any physical inspection begins.
Why Inspection Matters, Even at a Licensed Dealership
Every used car has a history, and your job as a buyer is to read it. In South Australia, a licensed dealer is legally required to sell a roadworthy vehicle, so the car must meet minimum safety standards before it can be listed. That is real protection. But roadworthy and mechanically excellent are not the same thing, which is exactly why knowing how to inspect a used car still matters, even on a dealer's lot.
This guide does two jobs. Part 1 explains what a quality dealer does to a car before you ever see it. Part 2 is a practical, step-by-step inspection you can run yourself when you arrive. If you are new to all this, our First Time Buyers Guide to Used Cars sets out the full journey, and our guide to dealer vs private used car sales explains why buying from a licensed dealer takes much of the risk out of the inspection in the first place.
| The roadworthy misconceptionA roadworthy certificate means the car is safe to drive on Australian roads. It does not mean the engine is in perfect condition, the gearbox has years of life left, or the tyres are anywhere near new. These are minimum legal standards, not quality guarantees. At Adelaide Vehicle Centre, our preparation process goes well beyond what the law requires. |
Part 1: What Adelaide Vehicle Centre Does Before You See the Car
Most inspection guides assume you are buying from a stranger in a car park. Buying from a quality dealer changes the picture, because a great deal of the inspection has already been done before the car reaches the lot. Here is what happens at Adelaide Vehicle Centre.
- A purpose-built preparation centre. Every vehicle passes through our state-of-the-art preparation centre before it is offered for sale. It is where the real work happens, well out of sight of the showroom.
- Mechanical inspection. Each car is mechanically inspected across the systems that matter most: engine, brakes, suspension and fluids. The aim is to fix issues, not hide them.
- Structural assessment. Every vehicle is structurally assessed, and we stand behind that with our own structural and mechanical guarantee on every car we sell.
- Roadworthy compliance. As SA law requires, every Adelaide Vehicle Centre car is roadworthy before it is listed.
- Full disclosure with a Form 1. Any known defect that will not be repaired is listed on the CBS SA Form 1, the Notice of Defects, which you read and sign before the contract. It is buyer protection in writing.
- EV and hybrid battery checks. Under changes to the Second-hand Vehicle Dealers Act that took effect in September 2025, the high-voltage battery health of electric and hybrid vehicles is checked before sale.
In short, by the time you see one of our cars, it has already been mechanically inspected and structurally assessed. That is the difference between a vehicle that merely scrapes the legal minimum and one that has been properly prepared. It is the standard behind our reputation, and it sits at the heart of the used car dealer standards we hold ourselves to. You can also browse Adelaide Vehicle Centre vehicles that have already been through this process.
Part 2: What You Should Still Check When You Arrive
Even with all of that done, your own eyes and ears matter. A quick, methodical once-over gives you confidence and, occasionally, a negotiating point. Work through these six steps in order.
Step 1: Start With the Paperwork
- VIN match. The VIN on the car, found on the dashboard near the windscreen or on the driver's door pillar, must match the VIN on the registration documents.
- Service logbook. Look for regular stamped services, ideally every 10,000 to 15,000km or six months. Gaps are worth asking about.
- PPSR check. Run a PPSR search for about $2 at ppsr.gov.au using the 17-character VIN. It confirms there is no money owing and no written-off or stolen history.
- Form 1 disclosure. Ask for the CBS SA Form 1 document. Every licensed dealer must provide it before sale.
Paperwork is a topic in itself. Our used car buying checklist for Australians covers the admin and verification side in full, so this guide can stay focused on the car itself.
Step 2: Exterior Inspection
- Walk the whole car first. Do a slow lap before you fall for the interior.
- Panel gaps. Uneven gaps between the bonnet, doors and bumpers are the most reliable sign of accident repair.
- Paint. Look for colour variations or overspray on the rubber seals, which point to a respray after damage.
- Tyres. Check all four and the spare. The minimum legal tread depth in Australia is 1.6mm, though it is wise to replace at 3mm. Uneven wear suggests alignment or suspension issues.
- Rust. Check the wheel arches, door sills, under the boot and underneath. Surface rust is common; structural rust is a serious problem.
- Use daylight. Inspect in natural light where you can, because artificial lighting hides paintwork variations.
Step 3: Interior Inspection
- Seat wear. It should be consistent with the odometer reading, as the note below explains.
- Warning lights. Turn the ignition to on, not start. All warning lights should briefly illuminate, then go out. Any light that stays on is a problem.
- Electrics. Test the windows, mirrors, air conditioning and every button on the infotainment unit.
- Seatbelts. They should retract smoothly and lock firmly under a sharp tug.
- Lift the mats and spare wheel cover. Look for water staining or rust, which can signal a leak or flood damage.
- Smell and headliner. Check for a smoke smell or water stains on the headliner.
| The odometer and seat wear cross-checkA car's odometer can be wound back, but the seat bolsters cannot lie. If a seller claims 45,000km yet the driver's seat is heavily worn, cracked or sagging, the numbers do not add up. Seat wear tells the real story of how a car has lived. In SA, odometer tampering is illegal and carries significant penalties, and licensed dealers are prohibited from selling cars with tampered odometers. Trust what you see. |
Step 4: Under the Bonnet
Do this before the engine is warmed up. A warm engine can mask oil leaks, and hot components can burn you.
- Engine oil. Pull the dipstick and check the colour. Amber or light brown is normal. Milky or grey oil suggests water contamination, which is a reason to walk away.
- Coolant. Check the reservoir level and colour, and look for oil globules on top, which can indicate a serious internal fault.
- Belts and hoses. Look for cracking, fraying or heavy wear.
- Leaks. Fresh oil stains or residue on or around the engine point to a current leak.
| The steam-cleaned engine warningHere is a tip mechanics use every time: before you look at anything else, ask why the engine bay is spotless on a car that is several years old. A freshly steam-cleaned engine can look impressive, but it is also one of the oldest tricks for hiding an active oil leak. Open the bonnet before the engine has been started and look for fresh oil residue before everything gets blown away. |
Step 5: Underneath the Car
Be honest with yourself here: a full underbody check needs a hoist. Do what you can from a crouch, and know when to call in help.
- Rust. Look for obvious rust on the exhaust, frame rails or floor pan.
- Fresh drips. Look for fluid pooling under the engine or gearbox.
- Rubber boots. Torn boots on the CV joints or ball joints, visible near the wheels, point to worn suspension components.
- For the full picture. A licensed mechanic with a hoist can see everything. That is worth around $150 to $250 for peace of mind on a private purchase, and it is exactly the kind of check a dealer preparation centre carries out before listing.
Step 6: Test Drive, and Do Not Skip It
- Vary the conditions. Drive on suburban streets, a short stretch of freeway if you can, and through a tight car park.
- Acceleration. It should be smooth and progressive, with no hesitation or shudder.
- Braking. Brake firmly from 60km/h. The car should stop straight, with no pulling or pulsing through the pedal.
- Steering. Any pull to one side at speed suggests alignment or suspension issues.
- Listen. Rattles, knocks, clunks, whines or grinding are all worth noting. Any unusual noise is a negotiating point, or a reason to walk away.
- Air conditioning. Test it on full cold and check it actually gets there.
When to Book a Professional Pre-Purchase Inspection
Some checks go beyond what any buyer can see in a car park, and that is where a professional pre-purchase inspection earns its keep.
- What it covers. An independent pre-purchase inspection assesses 150 to 200 or more points and uses a hoist for the undercarriage. Independent inspectors operate right across Adelaide.
- What it costs. Roughly $150 to $250, and worth it on purchases over $15,000 or on any private sale.
- When you buy from AVC. That first layer is already done. You are getting a mechanically inspected, structurally assessed, roadworthy vehicle.
- If you still want one. You are welcome to arrange an independent check for your own confidence. You are not buying blind from a licensed SA dealer.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a roadworthy and a pre-purchase inspection?
A roadworthy confirms the car meets the minimum legal safety standards to be driven on the road. A pre-purchase inspection is a far more comprehensive mechanical assessment, often covering 150 to 200 or more points. They are not the same thing, and a roadworthy does not guarantee mechanical condition. Adelaide Vehicle Centre's preparation centre goes beyond the roadworthy standard.
What should I check when buying a used car from a dealer?
When buying from a licensed dealer in SA, the car must be roadworthy and any known defects must be disclosed on the Form 1. It is still worth checking that the VIN matches the paperwork, reviewing the service logbook, looking over the exterior and interior, and taking a proper test drive. Run a PPSR check as well.
How do I know if a used car has been in an accident?
Look for uneven panel gaps, mismatched paint and paint overspray on the rubber seals. A PPSR check reveals any written-off history. In SA, a licensed dealer must disclose if a vehicle has been written off or flood damaged.
What does a steam-cleaned engine bay mean?
A freshly steam-cleaned engine bay on an older car can hide an active oil leak. It is not automatically a bad sign, but it is worth asking why the engine was cleaned and looking closely for fresh residue before the car is started.
Is it safe to buy a used car without a mechanical inspection?
When buying from a licensed dealer it can be, because they must sell roadworthy vehicles and disclose known defects, and a preparation centre like AVC's goes further still. For higher-value purchases, an independent inspection adds an extra layer of confidence if you want it.
Inspect With Confidence
Knowing how to inspect a used car turns a nervous purchase into a confident one. Work through the paperwork, the exterior, the interior, under the bonnet, underneath and the test drive, and you will catch most issues before they become your problem. And when you buy from a dealer whose preparation centre has already done the heavy lifting, you are starting a long way ahead. Browse Adelaide Vehicle Centre vehicles that have been prepared to this standard, or contact our Adelaide dealership to arrange a closer look at a specific car.
